Premium Day-Old Layer Chicks & Fertile Eggs

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The most common cause is insufficient fresh water. A hen that isn't drinking won't lay, even if she has plenty of feed. Other frequent causes include too little light (hens need 14 to 16 hours a day), stress from predators, overcrowding or noise, a hen going broody, or a natural molt. Because these factors often combine, the best approach is to rule them out one by one, starting with water and light.

Hens need 14 to 16 hours of light per day to trigger the hormone response that produces an egg. In summer this happens naturally. In winter, shorter days mean hens fall below that threshold and production drops. If you need consistent year round output, add artificial light on a timer, roughly a 25W bulb (or 3 to 9W LED) per 9 square metres of coop space.

No. Hens need 8 hours of uninterrupted sleep to stay healthy, and leaving lights on continuously will stress the flock rather than help it. Use a timer to give 14 to 16 hours of light during the day, not around the clock.

Hens bought in autumn or winter often delay the start of laying until daylight hours naturally increase in spring or summer. This is normal and related to light exposure, not a sign of a sick or faulty bird.

Each hen needs about 250ml of fresh, clean water daily, roughly twice her feed intake by weight. A hen drinks first thing in the morning before she eats, so if you notice reduced feeding, check the water supply first. Blocked filters, empty drinkers, or closed taps are common hidden culprits (some medications can clog filters).

Hens need around 140g of good quality layer feed per day, including about 4g of calcium for strong eggshells. Feed should be available ad lib (never limit fed), and extra scraps or treats can dilute the nutritional balance of a proper layer feed, so keep supplementary feeding minimal.

A hen goes "broody" when she's allowed to sit on a nest of uncollected eggs, triggering an instinct to hatch them. Once broody, she'll stop laying for around 21 days, the time it takes an egg to hatch. Prevent this by collecting eggs at least once a day and keeping nesting boxes closed overnight.

Stress is one of the biggest hidden causes of reduced egg production. Common triggers include predators (rats, snakes, and gaps in coop walls or screens), overcrowding (hens need roughly 0.5m² indoors and 0.5 to 1m² outdoors each), and loud or sudden noise, which has been shown to lower egg production and raise stress hormones. Playing calm background music, such as classical music, can help mask stressful noise and support better laying.

Hens can't sweat, so they rely on panting to cool down, and severe heat stress can be fatal as well as reduce egg quantity and quality. Watch for panting, pale combs and wattles, wings held away from the body, and reduced feeding. Mitigate it with constant access to cool water, good shade and ventilation, and enough space to prevent overcrowding.

Hens typically begin laying between 18 and 32 weeks of age, depending on breed, and can lay productively for years. As they age (potentially living to around 10 years), egg frequency drops to one or two per week, and quality declines, with softer shells and smaller eggs becoming more common.

Molting is a natural feather renewal process that happens around 18 months of age and then annually. Because energy goes into growing new feathers rather than making eggs, laying typically pauses for 2 to 4 months. Switching to a higher protein feed during the molt can help, with a return to normal calcium rich layer feed once it's complete.

Yes. Egg theft is often mistaken for a drop in production. Hens can learn to peck and eat their own eggs if nesting boxes aren't provided, predators like snakes, rodents, cats and dogs are drawn to eggs, and eggs left in the open (rather than in proper nesting boxes) are far easier to lose. Frequent collection and secure nesting boxes solve most theft related losses.

Use the "thirds rule." At any given moment, roughly one third of your hens should be resting, one third drinking, and one third feeding. If the balance looks off, check ventilation, water availability, feed access, and possible sources of stress, in that order.